2011年12月18日

[knitting] ordinary life - finished




為什麼叫ordinary life呢?
因為這件全是平針,就像平常的生活一樣平凡。
但平凡的生活跟大風大浪的生活比起來或許也不錯(?)
或許有人覺得這件沒什麼特色,但我還滿喜歡這種普通的感覺,手織衣不一定要滿佈空花,有時來點這種樸素的fu也很棒。另一方面我是為了練一些之前沒試過的方式而選這件。
Why I name it "ordinary life"? Because I knit it in st st, as my routine.  Maybe oridinary life it better than the life with stormy waves.  Someone may think that this cardigan doesn't have any characteristic, but that's its characteristic!  Hand knitting clothes don't have to be strange, or with a lot of yos.  Simple is also pretty good :).  Another reason I choose this cardigan is that I could learn many different skill from it.

織圖 Pattern: Phildar No. 009, Mode Hiver 2008/2009
線材 Yarn: S. Sue 絲光美麗諾-銀灰 S.Sue Gloss Merino Yarn - Silver
用針 Needle: JIS #4(起針 cast on), #5(鬆緊針 ribbing), #6(身片 body)
期間 Time: 2011.07.08~2011.10.03

半迴針縫的效果很不錯
sew in half-running stitch way
這件真的改很大(雖然看起來跟原圖沒啥差別):
1. 重算針數和段數(當然,這是一定要的),例如:領口、腰線、袖長(原圖是8分袖,我改成長袖)
2. 身片:改成全下針(原圖是上針,但我超討厭上針)
3. 口袋:改成set-in的做法(原圖是織一片外袋,最後再縫上去,這種方法我實在不敢領教,無法想像縫出來會變什麼樣子)
4. 扣洞:我本來想照原圖把所有的扣洞都織成水平的,但後來我決定第一個扣洞用水平的,其餘的扣洞改成垂直的。
5. 前立和領子:先將前立(留活目)和前片縫合後,再來挑針織領子(原圖很麻煩,領子居然是另外織,而且是分左右兩片,最後再全部縫起來,這樣會比較漂亮嗎???)
6. 袖口的反折鬆緊編:我直接縫死,因為袖子是用片織而不是用輪織,反折鬆緊編和袖子的縫線是相反的,不縫死的話會被看到縫線
7. 以修正原型來織圖,且用正統的半迴針縫方式來縫袖子 (看起來真的跟平常縫出來的袖子不一樣♡)
8. 學rikora的方式,口袋上改縫小一點的扣子(原圖是用和前立的扣子一樣大的)

I really modify it a lot (even it seems the same):
1. re-calculate all stitches and rows (of course, I always do that), for example: neck, waist shape, length of sleeves (I want to make it long sleeves)
2. knit in st st instead of reverse st for body (I hate reverse st!)
3. work set-in pocket (I don't understand why the original instruction request knit a piece and then sew it on the front piece, how ugly it would be?)
4. I wanted to make all button holes horizontal first (as the original), but I changed my mind. I made horizontal one for first button hole, and vertical ones for the rest.
5. sew front ribbing to front pieces first, and then knit front ribbing with collar (the original instruction said: knitting the collar in 2 pieces and the sew all of them together.  Why should we do that??)
6. made the fold sleeve fixed because I don’t want the sewing mark be seen by anyone. It looks a little flatter than the original one, but it’s good.
7. use Japanese mod model & sleeves which design under mod model : sew sleeve by “half running stitch.” I always wanted to try that when I learn NAC, finally I have a suitable project to do that. I think that it looks better and more formal :) That’s what I want!
8. I really love Rikora’s Morning Haze, so I also have smaller button for pockets (how a great idea it is!). I use similar buttons with front ribbing ones, but you could still find they are different when you have a close look.
前立的扣子 the button of front ribbing

口袋的扣子 the button of pocket

口袋 Pocket
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